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It take s a lifetime of good
works to get to heaven. It only takes a few hours of good driving to get to the
wilderness paradise of Breaks Interstate Park. For Daniel Boone, who discovered
Breaks Gorge in 1767, it was a far more arduous journey. Boone and two
companions were searching for a route through the mountains into Kentucky, or
Kaintuck as it was called at that time. Following the rivers, the trio headed
into the Cumberland Mountain range and began traveling along a northerly flowing
stream. Their route is known because Boone carved his name on a tree at a salt
lick on Russell Fork just upstream from what is now the town of Haysi. It was
downstream from this camp that the travelers came to the rugged, impassable
river gorge. The rapids that spilled through the gorge’s rock walls made
further passage along the river impossible. Giving up their trek west, the men
spent the winter camped at the junction of Russell Fork and Levisa River, then
returned in the spring to their homes in North Carolina. In 1771, Boone again
sought a route west through this region and again left his name carved on a
tree.
It wasn’t until June 1951 when Virginia-Kentucky Route 80 opened that there
was an accessible route though the Breaks. In 1954 Virginia and Kentucky passed
joint legislation creating Breaks Interstate Park (the only other
jointly held state park is Palisades State Park on the New York and New Jersey
border). These steps opened an incredible wilderness area for travelers.
The 4,600-acre interstate park encompasses the largest canyon east of the
Mississippi River. The five-mile, 1600-foot-deep gorge is called the “Grand
Canyon of the South” or, reflecting the lush vegetation, the “Grand Canyon With
Clothes On.” The brilliant colors of Arizona’s canyon walls are more than
matched by the brilliant autumn foliage of the Cumberland Mountains.
The gorge was cut by the Russell Fork of the Big Sandy River at the northern
end of Pine Mountain. One section of the mountain range was so hard and
resistant to the flowing waters that it turned Russell Fork. The fork looped in
a giant horseshoe around the mountain. The three-sided pyramid-shaped formation
called The Towers is one of the parks most scenic spectacles. Over a half-mile
long, one-third mile wide and 600 feet high, The Towers had a railroad tunnel
hewn through its solid rock. Local legend holds that Englishman John Swift hid
a vast silver fortune somewhere on The Towers. Another striking geological
formation is The Chimneys, on the western rim of Breaks Gorge, visible from the
eastern rim.
Most of the park facilities are on the one-mile tabletop plateau on the gorge’s
eastern rim. No highway bridge spans the gorge and the western side is
undeveloped and inaccessible. There are 13 miles of trails. Two short trails
take roughly 30 minutes: The Tower Tunnel Trail leads to an overlook from which
to view the railroad tunnel. In July and August the blueberries bushes along
the trail yield a delicious harvest. The Towers Trail also leads to an
overlook; this walkway is flanked with rhododendron and mountain laurel. Six
trails can be hiked in an hour; of these two--Geological and Ridge trails--have
self-guided nature trail booklets that can be picked up at the visitor center.
The other short trails lead to a grassy overlook, a cold spring, Laurel Lake,
and a connecting loop trail that leads to other trails. It takes about an
hour-and-a-half to hike the Grassy Creek Trail; there is a steady uphill grade
on this moderate-ranked trail. For those with more time, (and more energy),
there are four trails that take two hours or more to walk. The most difficult
is the River Trail that takes you down to the base of the gorge; the trail is
steep and rugged. The Overlook Trail extends along the edge of the cliffs and
offers an array of canyon overlooks. (Children need to be closely monitored on
these unprotected promontories.) This is a spectacular trail in the autumn.
Laurel Branch Trail leads from the lower end of Laurel Lake to Grassy Creek, and
the later part of the trail is steep and treacherous. Prospector’s Trail
follows the contour of the land about 350 feet beneath the major overlooks, so
you can look up at the rock formations and down at the canyon below. There is a
three-mile long Mountain Bike Trail.
The physically challenged visitor can view the gorge from the Stateline
Overlook, which has a paved walkway connecting the viewing platform with the
parking lot. This overlook is 920 feet above Russell Fork, where the river
exits the gorge and flows from Virginia into Eastern Kentucky. For those not
able to hike, there is a 7/10 of a mile drive through an undeveloped part of the
park that provides an opportunity to spot turkey, deer and other small game.
Sports enthusiasts may want to try their luck in the 12-acre Laurel Lake. It is
stocked with bass and bluegill (the Russell Fork River is stocked with trout).
Pedal boats can be rented near the park’s swimming pool. The riding stables are
also in the pool area. The best place to learn all about the activities at the
park as well as the natural and historical background is at the visitor center,
open daily from 9:00 A.M. to 5:00 P.M. Visitor programs are frequently
scheduled at the amphitheater.
The park is becoming increasingly popular with white-water enthusiasts who are
exhilarated and challenged by the ten-mile course from Bartlick above Breaks
Gorge to Elkhorn City below it. Running the river entails a dropping 440 feet
in a series of rapids that range in ratings from four to six. There are
pull-out points for less-experienced floaters. The level of water depends of
releases from the John Flannagan Dam, for information on times of releases call
(703) 835-9544.
There are eight rafting companies that run the Russell Fork:
Russell Fork Whitewater Adventures (703) 530-7044
USA Whitewater, Incorporated (800) USA-RAFT
Cherokee Adventures (800) 445-7238
Laurel Highlands River Tours, Inc. (800) 4-RAFTIN
Wahoo’s Adventures (800) 444-RAFT
Whitewater Adventures (800) WWA-RAFT
Infiniti Rafting (704) 254-4898
Mountain Streams and Trails (800) 245-4090
Popular as Breaks Interstate Park is with daytrippers, many who visit like
to stay for a few days. There are 122 developed camping sites and 30 primitive
sites, all on a first-come, first-served basis. Additional accommodations are
available at the 34-unit motor lodge (703-865-4414), where each has a balcony
overlooking the canyon. Four cottages are nestled in a wooded setting. The
Rhododendron Restaurant is open daily from 7:00 A.M. to 9:00 P.M. and it too
overlooks the canyon. Picnic shelters and picnic areas are located throughout
the park and there are children’s playground areas. There is a nominal per car
entrance charge. They do rent bicycles in the park.
Directions: From I-81 take I-77 west
to Bluefield then Route 19/460 south. At Claypool Hill where the two roads
split take Route 460 west. After you pass Grundy you will make a left on Route
609 which will take you into the park.
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