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Breaks Interstate Park

 

 

         It take s a lifetime of good works to get to heaven.  It only takes a few hours of good driving to get to the wilderness paradise of Breaks Interstate Park.  For Daniel Boone, who discovered Breaks Gorge in 1767, it was a far more arduous journey.  Boone and two companions were searching for a route through the mountains into Kentucky, or Kaintuck as it was called at that time.  Following the rivers, the trio headed into the Cumberland Mountain range and began traveling along a northerly flowing stream.  Their route is known because Boone carved his name on a tree at a salt lick on Russell Fork just upstream from what is now the town of Haysi.  It was downstream from this camp that the travelers came to the rugged, impassable river gorge.  The rapids that spilled through the gorge’s rock walls made further passage along the river impossible.  Giving up their trek west, the men spent the winter camped at the junction of Russell Fork and Levisa River, then returned in the spring to their homes in North Carolina.  In 1771, Boone again sought a route west through this region and again left his name carved on a tree.

    It wasn’t until June 1951 when Virginia-Kentucky Route 80 opened that there was an accessible route though the Breaks.  In 1954 Virginia and Kentucky passed joint legislation creating Breaks Interstate Park  (the only other jointly held state park is Palisades State Park on the New York and New Jersey border).  These steps opened an incredible wilderness area for travelers.

    The 4,600-acre interstate park encompasses the largest canyon east of the Mississippi River.  The five-mile, 1600-foot-deep gorge is called the “Grand Canyon of the South” or, reflecting the lush vegetation, the “Grand Canyon With Clothes On.”  The brilliant colors of Arizona’s canyon walls are more than matched by the brilliant autumn foliage of the Cumberland Mountains.

    The gorge was cut by the Russell Fork of the Big Sandy River at the northern end of Pine Mountain.  One section of the mountain range was so hard and resistant to the flowing waters that it turned Russell Fork.  The fork looped in a giant horseshoe around the mountain.  The three-sided pyramid-shaped formation called The Towers is one of the parks most scenic spectacles.  Over a half-mile long, one-third mile wide and 600 feet high, The Towers had a railroad tunnel hewn through its solid rock.  Local legend holds that Englishman John Swift hid a vast silver fortune somewhere on The Towers.  Another striking geological formation is The Chimneys, on the western rim of Breaks Gorge, visible from the eastern rim.

Most of the park facilities are on the one-mile tabletop plateau on the gorge’s eastern rim.  No highway bridge spans the gorge and the western side is undeveloped and inaccessible.  There are 13 miles of trails.  Two short trails take roughly 30 minutes: The Tower Tunnel Trail leads to an overlook from which to view the railroad tunnel.  In July and August the blueberries bushes along the trail yield a delicious harvest.  The Towers Trail also leads to an overlook; this walkway is flanked with rhododendron and mountain laurel.  Six trails can be hiked in an hour; of these two--Geological and Ridge trails--have self-guided nature trail booklets that can be picked up at the visitor center.  The other short trails lead to a  grassy overlook, a cold spring, Laurel Lake, and a connecting loop trail that leads to other trails.  It takes about an hour-and-a-half to hike the Grassy Creek Trail; there is a steady uphill grade on this moderate-ranked trail.   For those with more time, (and more energy), there are four trails that take two hours or more to walk.  The most difficult is the River Trail that takes you down to the base of the gorge; the trail is steep and rugged.  The Overlook Trail extends along the edge of the cliffs and offers an array of canyon overlooks.  (Children need to be closely monitored on these unprotected promontories.)  This is a spectacular trail in the autumn.  Laurel Branch Trail leads from the lower end of Laurel Lake to Grassy Creek, and the later part of the trail is steep and treacherous.  Prospector’s Trail follows the contour of the land about 350 feet beneath the major overlooks, so you can look up at the rock formations and down at the canyon below.  There is a three-mile long Mountain Bike Trail.

    The physically challenged visitor can view the gorge from the Stateline Overlook, which has a paved walkway connecting the viewing platform with the parking lot.  This overlook is 920 feet above Russell Fork, where the river exits the gorge and flows from Virginia into Eastern Kentucky.  For those not able to hike, there is a 7/10 of a mile drive through an undeveloped part of the park that provides an opportunity to spot turkey, deer and other small game.  Sports enthusiasts may want to try their luck in the 12-acre Laurel Lake.  It is stocked with bass and bluegill (the Russell Fork River is stocked with trout).  Pedal boats can be rented near the park’s swimming pool.  The riding stables are also in the pool area.  The best place to learn all about the activities at the park as well as the natural and historical background is at the visitor center, open daily from 9:00 A.M. to 5:00 P.M.  Visitor programs are frequently scheduled at the amphitheater.

The park is becoming increasingly popular with white-water enthusiasts who are exhilarated and challenged by the ten-mile course from Bartlick above Breaks Gorge to Elkhorn City below it.  Running the river entails a dropping 440 feet in a series of rapids that range in ratings from four to six.  There are pull-out points for less-experienced floaters.   The level of water depends of releases from the John Flannagan Dam, for information on times of releases call (703) 835-9544.

There are eight rafting companies that run the Russell Fork:

Russell Fork Whitewater Adventures (703) 530-7044

USA Whitewater, Incorporated (800) USA-RAFT

Cherokee Adventures (800) 445-7238

Laurel Highlands River Tours, Inc. (800) 4-RAFTIN

Wahoo’s Adventures (800) 444-RAFT

Whitewater Adventures (800) WWA-RAFT

Infiniti Rafting (704) 254-4898

Mountain Streams and Trails (800) 245-4090

    Popular as Breaks Interstate Park is with daytrippers, many who visit like to stay for a few days.  There are 122 developed camping sites and 30 primitive sites, all on a first-come, first-served basis.  Additional accommodations are available at the 34-unit motor lodge (703-865-4414), where each has a balcony overlooking the canyon.  Four cottages are nestled in a wooded setting.  The Rhododendron Restaurant is open daily from 7:00 A.M. to 9:00 P.M. and it too overlooks the canyon.  Picnic shelters and picnic areas are located throughout the park and there are children’s playground areas. There is a nominal per car entrance charge.  They do rent bicycles in the park.

Directions: From I-81 take I-77 west to Bluefield then Route 19/460 south.  At Claypool Hill where the two roads split take Route 460 west.  After you pass Grundy you will make a left on Route 609 which will take you into the park.

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