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On the western
shore of the Chesapeake Bay lies Virginia's Northern Neck, first charted in
1608 by that intrepid explorer, John Smith. During the colonial period it was
the port of call for many trading ships on their way to the West Indies and
England.
The patriarch of
one of America's first families arrived on one of those early trading ships.
John Washington, great-grandfather of George, was a mate on an English ship
that was trading for tobacco in 1657. It ran aground near Mattox Creek while
sailing down the Potomac River on its voyage home. John Washington was so
impressed with the land, the southern hospitality and the daughter of his
host, Colonel Nathanial Pope, that he decided to remain. When he and Anne
Pope were married, they were given 700 acres of choice land on Mattox Creek.
He purchased additional land on Popes Creek and an American dynasty was begun.
It was here at
Popes Creek Plantation that George Washington was born on February 22, 1732.
The site is now the George Washington Birthplace National Monument.
Because both progress and wars have bypassed this region, the grounds of the
Washington plantation and the surrounding countryside look much as they did in
the 18th century.
The natural
beauty of the meandering Popes Creek, the broad views of the Potomac River and
the gently rolling fields all can be enjoyed as you stroll along the park's
trails. The land's historical significance is captured in the evocative film,
A Childhood Place, shown at the visitors center. Fall leaves and
migratory birds, snowy farmland, spring planting and summer wildflowers speak
quietly and eloquently of the same seasonal shifts that influenced young
George Washington. These natural rhythms form a bond between those who visit
and those who once lived here.
George
Washington lived on this family plantation until he was 3 1/2 years old when
the family moved to Little Hunting Creek Plantation, now known as Mount
Vernon. After his father's death when he was 11, George often returned to his
early childhood home, inherited by his half-brother, Augustine.
The family home
was destroyed by fire on Christmas Day 1779, while George was commander of the
Revolutionary army. Oyster shells now delineate the foundations of the
original home. A memorial house, erected in 1930-31, represents a house
typical of the kind the moderately wealthy Washingtons could afford. Although
most of the furniture is over 200 years old, only a small tea table and an
excavated wine bottle are from the original house.
Both birth and
death are remembered here. As you enter the grounds you'll see the miniature
Washington monument, a single granite shaft erected in memory of George
Washington in 1896. Nearby is the family burial grounds where George's
father, grandfather and great-grandfather are all buried.
But it is the
rebirth of nature that brings the long ago days to life. George Washington in
his later years remembered fishing along Popes Creek. You can easily imagine
the young boy making his way to the river and perhaps glimpsing an ocean-going
trading ship from the shore. Today the National Park Service owns 538 acres
of preserved shoreline, woods and pasture at Popes Creek Plantation. Fields
are still planted and tilled by 18th-century methods. During the summer
months special demonstrations are given on sheep shearing, tobacco planting,
harvesting and curing, soapmaking, candlemaking, dyeing and weaving. There
are also colonial music programs featuring the spinet and other instruments.
The George
Washington Birthplace National Monument is open daily from 9:00 A.M. to 5:00
P.M. except Christmas and New Year's Day. A nominal admission is charged.
There is a picturesque picnic area overlooking Popes Creek. You can also
picnic at nearby Westmoreland State Park. While at the park, you may want to
take advantage of the Olympic-size pool or even spend a relaxing hour on the
beach.
Also nearby
(north off Route 3/301 on Route 218, just across the Potomac River bridge from
Maryland) is Caledon Natural Area, a designated National Natural
Landmark because of its bald eagle habitat. The hiking trails in this
2,579-acre natural area provide a chance to see one of the largest
concentrations of bald eagles on the East Coast. Staff-led interpretive tours
of their habitat are given from mid-June to Labor Day (reservations are
recommended). There are five hiking trails at Celadon ranging from 7/10
miles to two trails of 1 1/10 miles. There are exhibits on the bald eagle at
the visitor center in the Smoot House. For information on programs at Caledon
Natural Area call (540) 663-3861.
Directions:
From I-95 take Route 3 east to Route 204. The George Washington Birthplace
National Monument is 1 7/10 miles off Route 3 on Route 204.
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