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SHENANDOAH VALLEY

Blue Ridge Parkway   

 

        

It is astonishing to learn that the Blue Ridge Parkway lies within a one-day drive of a sizeable portion of the United States population living between New York and northern Florida.  More than 20 million people a year travel the parkway’s 469 miles.  Yet the parkway remains unspoiled, although it is crowded on most pretty weekends from May through October.

The Blue Ridge Parkway begins where the Shenandoah National Park ends at Waynesboro, Virginia and continues to the beginning of the Great Smoky Mountain National Park in Cherokee, North Carolina.  The idea of a scenic parkway is generally credited to Virginia Senator Harry F. Byrd who in 1933, suggested to President Franklin D. Roosevelt that the two national parks be connected.  Construction began September 11, 1935 and the last seven-mile segment around Grandfather Mountain in North Carolina opened five decades later on September 11, 1987.  This scenic parkway was designed to be savored, not rapidly consumed.  The ten visitor centers and 275 turnouts provide ample opportunities to enjoy the scenic overlooks, explore the many trails and visit areas of special interest.

Milepost zero of America's longest national park is at Rockfish Gap and from there both the numbers and the road climb.  Elevations range from a low of 649 feet around the James River (milepost 63.8), where there is a visitor center and a restored lock of the James River Canal (see James River and Kanawah Canal selection) to a high of 6,047 around Devil's Courthouse in North Carolina.

The planners of the Blue Ridge Parkway sought to conserve not only the natural beauty of the southern Appalachian highlands but also the cultural and historical resources.  Humpback Rocks at milepost 5.8, for example, features exhibits on the home life of mountain settlers.  A self-guided trail leads to a restored pioneer farm where visitors get a first-hand look at what life was like for those who literally carved homesteads out of wilderness.  They hewed the logs for their cabins and picked the rocks for the foundations and fireplaces.  In addition to their houses, they built barns and pens for their animals and bins for their crops.  The rustic cabin is furnished and has "live-in" occupants who recreate life on this mountain farm every day from May through October.

Of course, on the parkway the fun is in traveling along the mountain tops while gazing over the mesmerizing valleys of Virginia.  This is a drive you'll want to take slowly; the 45-mile-an-hour speed limit and the winding macadam road make that a requirement even if it's not a preference. 

One of the most scenic spots along the parkway is the Peaks of Otter at milepost 86.  It is one of only two spots on the Virginia portion of the parkway offering overnight accommodations. For reservations at Peaks of Otter Lodge call (540) 586-1081.  In Virginia the toll-free number is (800) 542-5927.  Rocky Knob, milepost 174, offers overnight cabins. For reservations call (540) 593-3503.  The Virginia portion of the parkway also has four campgrounds: Otter Creek (near the James River),  Peaks of Otter, Roanoke Mountain and Rocky Knob.  For information on these campgrounds call (540) 857-2458.

The Peaks of Otter drew visitors even before European settlement.  The Iroquois and Cherokee once used the area as a "Warrior's Path."  Supplies for the Revolutionary War were carried along a valley road.  From 1845 to 1859 Polly Wood operated an ordinary, or inn, for travelers through the Alleghenies.  You can visit Polly Wood's Ordinary on weekends or take part in occasional living history programs on this site.

Another location for living history is the Johnson Farm built about 1850 and farmed through the 1930s.  Today it is used to re-create farm life of the 1920s.  Back in 1867 Robert E. Lee climbed the summit of the Peaks of Otter; today you can ride a bus to the top of Sharp Top Summit.  You can also hike one of the six trails.  For an easy and short walk take the .08 Elk Run Loop;  if you want a real workout, try the 3.3-mile moderately difficult Harkening Hill Loop.

Do save enough time to continue your drive as far as Mabry Mill at milepost 176, perhaps the best-loved spot on the entire parkway.  Ed Mabry made his money in the coal mines of West Virginia and came back to the southern highlands of Virginia to purchase land.  He quickly gained a reputation for fixing things at the blacksmith shop he set up in the Meadows of Dan area.  Today the ring of hammer and anvil resounds from the shop Ed Mabry built.  He went on to build a gristmill and sawmill.  Customers claimed the Mabrys produced the "best cornmeal in the country."  You can test that claim yourself by buying a sample of the cornmeal and buckwheat flour still sold at Mabry's Mill.

The weathered gray frame mill with its giant wheel sits beside a stream in a sylvan setting.  Amateur shutter bugs and professional photographers line the stream bank vying for the perfect shot.  Mabry's Mill, which served the community as a mill from 1905 until 1935, now serves as the central attraction of the National Park Service exhibit on mountain industry.  The exhibit depicts the work of a tanner and shoemaker and, on summer weekends, other craftsmen including a blacksmith.

Traveling beyond the Virginia border into North Carolina, the parkway leads to the scenic charms of Linville Falls, Craggy Gardens and Mt. Pisgah.  You should drive all the way to the end of this magnificent mountain drive.

Directions:  From I-95 in the Richmond area, take I-64 west past Charlottesville to the beginning of the Blue Ridge Parkway.  The parkway can also be reached from numerous exits off I-81, most notably in the vicinity of Roanoke and Buena Vista.

 

 

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 Send us an email for details. Publication is guaranteed for those accepted in program. Instructor is former president of the Society of American Travel Writers.

 

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