In
what turned out to be one of
the longest legal battles in
United States jurisprudence,
Joyst Hite retained ownership
of 100,000 acres in the lower
Shenandoah Valley despite Lord
Fairfax's claims on the land.
Joyst Hite received the land
in return for bringing 100
settlers to this part of the
Virginia colony.
Joyst's grandson, Major Isaac
Hite, who was commissioned by
George Washington, built
Belle Grove in 1794, Isaac
married James Madison's
sister, Nelly Conway Madison.
When his brother-in-law, the
future president, married
Dolley Paine Todd they
honeymooned at Belle Grove.
James Madison's friend and
neighbor, Thomas Jefferson,
provided architectural advice
during the building of Belle
Grove. His touch can be
discerned in the graceful
symmetry of the house, in the
T-shaped halls and the top and
bottom opening windows. The
house is built of native
limestone and has a large
porticoed porch.
Looking out the windows at the
blue haze on the nearby
mountains, you don't question
how the range got its name,
but you do wonder shy the
house isn't called Belle View.
The house is furnished with
many pieces made in the
valley, but few belonged to
the Hite family. The parlor
does have Charles Peale Polk
portraits, commissioned by
Major Hite.
During the Civil War's Valley
Campaign, military action
occurred in and around Belle
Grove. In the fall of 1864
General Philip Sheridan made his
headquarters at Belle Grove. At
5:00 A.M. on October 19,
Confederate General Jubal Early
led a surprise raid on the Union
soldiers camped here. Sheridan
was in Washington conferring
with Secretary of War Stanton.
Sheridan heard the gun fire as
he returned. Confederate forces
were already counting this a
victory when Sheridan's timely
arrival turned the tide of
battle. More than 6,000 men
died at what the history books
call the Battle of Cedar Creek,
the last major battle for
control of the Shenandoah
Valley.
The Confederate General Stephen
Dodson Ranseur, a classmate of
George Custer's at West Point,
was mortally wounded and died at
Belle Grove. General Custer
visited him before his death.
There was a ladder to a roof-top
platform where Sheridan's men
sent messages to a lookout on
Signal Mountain. Candle smoke
graffiti in the attic says,
"U.S.A. Signal Corps 1864."
In the cellar you can see the
winter kitchen where you will
learn the derivation of the
expression, "too many irons in
the fire." If cooks during the
Federal period tried to use more
than one cookie press the irons
got too hot and burnt the cookie
wafers, thus there were too many
irons in the fire. Near the
kitchen is an extensive herb
garden to explore. Before you
leave be sure to visit the large
regional craft shop which
specialized in needlecraft
supplies.
Belle Grove is open April
through October, Monday through
Saturday, with tours from 10:15
A.M. to 3:15 P.M. and Sunday
1:15 to 4:15 P.M. Admission is
charged.
Directions: From I-95 in
the Richmond area take I-64 west
to Route I-81. Travel north on
I-81 to Exit 77, Route 627, and
proceed west to Route 11. Then
take Route 11 south for 11 miles
to Belle Grove on your right in
Middletown. Harisonburg is
between Winchester and Staunton
on Route 11.
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