Historic Jamestowne

***** Our recommendation: “Must see!” 

            A devastating hurricane struck Jamestown Island in September of 2003. downing hundreds of trees and destroying the handsome Visitors Center.  Ironically the original 104 English settlers in 1607might have shrugged off Isabel as yet another storm. They already had been forced to endure several major storms at sea and then on land -  drought, failing crops, Indian raids and the ever-present danger of a Spanish invasion.

But like those original settlers, Historic Jamestowne Island has persevered, starting construction on a new visitors center and a new Archaearium (exhibit halls combined with a live archeology site).  It will display 1,000 of the most exciting discoveries chosen from 750,000 artifacts uncovered to date.

A storm of change swept over the island in 1993.  For more than 200 years history books have reported that the original James Fort built by the first settlers have been swallowed completely by the rising James River. But a team of APVA Preservation Virginia  archeologists led by William Kelso was suspicious of that story.  During some of their excavations, they began to uncover dark indications in the dirt of wooden wooden posts that had been driven into the ground.  A triangular pattern of posts emerged (the corner wall of a fort. James Fort? ) Later excavations have confirmed that the original fort had been discovered and to date the diggings have uncovered everything ranging from weapons to pottery shards and articles of toiletry used by the first English residents (e.g., a silver ear pick and nail cleaner!).  Today a third fort has been excavated and a number of skeletal remains found.

          The discoveries are now casting fresh doubt on another story in the history books, that the first settlers were lazy and incompetent and may have brought much of the early miseries on themselves because of their lack of farming and survival skills. Now evidence indicates that the island was in the midst of a prolonged severe drought that may have destroyed many of the food crops.  Articles that have been uncovered have proved they were able to manufacture answers to many of their daily needs.  Now “footprints” of two very long buildings have been discovered that indicate something like London-row houses may have been built in early Jamestown.  These were constructed over holes in the ground that were believed to be the first shelters of the arriving settlers. Artifacts recovered from the row houses show the houses were once stocked with fancy dishes and glassware for entertaining. Every new discovery, often puzzling, helps rewrite the history of early Jamestown.

            Almost every weekday you can watch APVA archeologists and volunteers continuing to dig out more artifacts. Go before 4 P.M. and try to avoid rainy days when they stop work and cover the digging area with tarps. Log on to www.historicjamestown for the latest news.

Ask at the temporary Visitors Center about tours (always more frequent in summer months than they are in off season months).  Some of the tours of the island are led by a costumed interpreter who takes the role of one of the early settlers. He may tell you about his squabbles with Captain John Smith or some of his days longing for England.  Learn a few 17th-century words, and you'll be able to banter with your colonially-attired interpreter on one of the walking tours.  Try dropping a "Heaven forfend," "Shodikans," or "Fie on it," in your conversation.   Substitute 'nay" or "aye" for "no" or "yes."   Use "a" in place of "to," as in "go a town." Or try "me" to replace "I' as in "me feels" and "me thinks."  You'll have a wonderful time.

Walk through one of the first churches built in America. One portion is the remaining church tower built in 1637, just 30 years after the first Englishmen had arrived. Right behind the church is a famous statue of Pocahontas who – according to the famous legend – saved Captain John Smith from being killed by the people of her tribe. Many people like to pose for pictures holding one of her outstretched hands, now well-worn from thousands of handshakes.

Before leaving make a stop at glassblowers hut (follow the signs near the entrance gate).  You can get some good pictures of them blowing  into a tube covered with a glob of red-hot molten glass, creating a beautiful green vase or other artistic glassware that you can buy at the little gift shop.  

       Remember when you leave Historic Jamestowne that you’re within a mile of another “must see” sight, Jamestown Settlement. Bear to the left and in a minute or so you’re in the parking lot. (See the Jamestown Settlement chapter in this book).  You are also close to the free ferry that regularly crosses the James River to Surry and other historic sites such as Bacon’s Castle.

Admission:  $8 per adult over 16 (good for 7 days). Children under 16 are free – as are seniors with Golden Age passports.  The gate opens at 8:30 A.M. and closes at 4:30 P.M.  You can stay until dusk.

Directions:  From 199 exit on route 5 and head south. Turn left when you see Jamestown Settlement and continue on that road to reach Historic Jamestowne. If you’re at the Colonial Williamsburg Visitors Center, get on the Colonial Parkway. Turn right on to the parkway and you go to Historic Jamestowne. Turn left on the parkway and you will go the other way to Yorktown.  Follow the signs.