Williamsburg's enduring appeal is in its complete evocation of Virginia's colonial capital.  Its public and private buildings are seen within the context of the 18th century rather than the hubbub of the 20th century.  Brick walks flank the broad streets on which carriages and wagons still travel.  As you glance over the picket fences you'll see the gardens of yesterday blooming again.

The town of Williamsburg was laid out by Governor Francis Nicholson in the area called Middle Plantation, established in 1699 on a broad ridge between the York and James rivers.  This stockaded outpost provided a line of defense for Jamestown against Native American attacks.  After the third Jamestown fire the capital of the colony was moved to Middle Plantation.  It was renamed Williamsburg in honor of King William III.  The town grew to a population of 1,800, but this was greatly increased when the General Court and the House of Burgesses were in session.

    Nicholson's plan divided the city into one-half acre residential lots; sufficient land for a house, dependencies and a garden. English garden styles popular in the reign of William and Mary, 1687-1709, were copied in the elegant formal gardens of the Governor's Palace and the backyards of private homes.

    Alexander Spotswood, the first of the seven governors to live in the Palace, was determined to make the garden the finest in the colonies, even if he personally had to pay to do it.  He succeeded admirably and the garden he envisioned has been reconstructed and replanted.  Of enormous help in this restoration was the discovery in Oxford University's Bodleian Library of an 18th-century engraving showing plantings near the Palace.  Extensive archeological investigation revealed the location of paths, walls, steps, gates and the parterres (beds).  To speak of the Palace garden as a single entity is confusing because there are several separate gardens---the maze, the upper and lower ballroom gardens and the falling garden.

The maze is perhaps the most popular.  Young and old delight in tackling the mysteries of this conceit.  The prickly leaves of the native American holly used to create this natural puzzle discourage short cuts.  The design was copied from Hampton Court's maze, a favorite of the English nobility.

    The upper ballroom garden reveals another component of many English gardens, the "Twelve Apostles."  These sentinels, cylindrically shaped topiaries, keep constant watch over the garden.  The extensive use of holly and boxwood means that the gardens remain green all year.  Spring and summer bring masses of color to the 16 diamond-shaped beds of the upper garden and the long beds and borders of the lower level.  Pleached (interlaced) allees flank the lower garden, making natural tunnels that provide both shade and privacy.  The garden was an ideal spot for courting in the 18th century; it was one of the few places that a private conversation was possible.

You too might enjoy an escape to the gardens of Williamsburg.  Many visitors are so busy trying to see the buildings, they miss the spirit of this remarkable place.  The sense of continuity is keenly felt amid the living reminders of the past.

A few of the private homes open their garden oases to the public.  A map denoting them is available at the visitor center.  George Wythe (pronounced like Smith) spent tranquil hours away from disputatious lawyers in the pleasure garden of his home on Palace Green (see Private Homes selection).  His neighbor and town mayor, Thomas Everard, added an unusual feature to his garden, a small duck pond.  Many of the shops and taverns have gardens.  You can enjoy an alfresco meal at King's Arms, Chowning's or Shields Tavern (see Tavern selection).

    A garden symposium is held each April.  Williamsburg's Historic Area is generally open daily from 9:00 A.M. to 5:00 P.M., and until 6:00 P.M. during the summer months.

Directions:  From I-95 in the Richmond area, take I-64 east to Williamsburg.  Use Exit 238 onto Route 143 (you'll bear right off I-64).  This is quickly followed by a right onto Route 132.  You'll turn left onto feeder road Route 132Y into the Colonial Williamsburg Visitor Center.  Just follow the green shield signs to Colonial Williamsburg.