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CENTRAL  VIRGINIA

Orange County - Robert E. Lee's army stayed many months in this large county 

      

       Virginia’s largest county, created in 1734, extended to the Mississippi River in the west and north to the Great Lakes.  Orange County not only encompassed great distances, it also witnessed great events and was home to great men.  Lieutenant Governor Alexander Spotswood took charge of the Virginia colony in 1710.  Four years later he settled with a group of German immigrants on the banks of the Rapidan River, in what two decades later would be Orange County.  His palatial home and the settlement were both called Germanna.  When William Byrd of Westover  visited the mines and furnaces, he called Spotswood’s home “The Enchanted Castle.” The remains of Fort Germanna and Spotswood’s home are being excavated and studied. 
      In 1716, Spotswood led a group of settlers over the Blue Ridge Mountains.  He wanted to show his colonists that the mountains could be crossed and that rich land lay waiting for them.  Spotswood called the prominent men who traveled with him the Knights of the Golden Horseshoe.  One of the Knights was James Taylor II, who patented 13,500 acres, which included most of what is today the town of Orange.  His 1722 house, Bloomsbury, still stands (it is not, however, open to the public).  Two of Taylor’s great-grandsons became president of the United States: Zachary Taylor (born in Orange County) and James Madison (see Montpelier selection).
     While the area had only a peripheral brush with the American Revolution---a British raiding party scoured the area for several days and Lafayette marched through the county---it was the scene for numerous engagements during the Civil War.  In 1862 a skirmish was fought in the town streets of Orange.  Two railroad lines that supplied the Confederates ran through the county and the area had several soldiers’ hospitals.   The Army of Northern Virginia retired to Orange County for nine months after Gettysburg.   General Robert E. Lee  repulsed Grant when his Army of the Potomac crossed the Rapidan River into Orange County in the fall of 1863.  Both armies then spent the winter camped across from each other along the river’s banks.  Lee and his staff officers attended St. Thomas’ Episcopal Church in Orange.
     With spring, the Union army under Grant recrossed the Rapidan into the eastern region known as the Wilderness.  The armies met in one of the bloodiest battles of the war (see Wilderness Battlefield selection).  Although that battle was a costly draw at best for Grant, he continued his attacks in Virginia driving first to Richmond and then on to Appomattox.
     There are many reminders of Orange County’s rich past.  The James Madison Museum honors the country’s fourth president and the man who was primarily responsible for the drafting and ratification of the U.S. Constitution and its Bill of Rights.  Exhibits reveal the many facets of Madison’s life, including many personal possessions from James and Dolley Madison’s nearby home, Montpelier.
     One of the focal pieces is Madison’s favorite chair made from campeachy wood, a type of mahogany grown in Mexico. Other exhibited pieces include a four-poster bed, chest, game table and library table.  There are books from Madison’s own collection and correspondence from his years as president.  Fashions worn by Dolley Madison are also exhibited.  A short video is shown on Montpelier, Madison’s life-long home.
In addition to the historical exhibits about Madison, the museum also has a Hall of Agriculture with early farm equipment and machinery and a restored 1730s “Patent” house.  This is singularly appropriate as Madison was described by Jefferson as the “best farmer in the world” because of his innovative farming methods.  Farm equipment on exhibit includes a reaper, seed cleaner, corn sheller, wooden cider press, fodder cutter, husker, wagon and several varieties of plows.
      The James Madison Museum, 129 Caroline Street,  is open year round on weekdays 9:00 A.M. to 4:00 P.M. and on weekends from March through November from 1:00 to 4:00 P.M.  It is closed on weekends from December through February and on major holidays.  Admission is charged.
     Right beside the museum is St. Thomas Episcopal Church. This church was built in 1833-34 according to plans designed by Thomas Jefferson for Christ Church, Charlottesville.  Jefferson’s church was built in 1824 and torn down in 1895.  St. Thomas Episcopal Church, the only surviving example of Jefferson’s ecclesiastical design, is based on Chalgrin’s St. Philippe de Roule, a church Jefferson admired in Paris.  It is likely that the church in Orange was built by one or more of the master builders who worked with Jefferson at Monticello and the University of Virginia.  These artisans worked in the Orange area during the 1820s and 1830s and were  responsible for the duplication of  Jefferson’s architectural designs throughout the region.  The church window on the left side near the front was done by Tiffany; it is just one of the church’s many vibrant stained-glass windows.
In addition to serving as a house of worship during the Civil War, it also was used as a hospital and shelter following the Battles of Cedar Mountain, Fredericksburg, Chancellorsville, the Wilderness and Spotsylvania Courthouse.  St. Thomas’ Church is included on the Virginia Landmarks Register and the National Register of Historic Places. 
A walking tour route (copies can be picked up at the adjacent museum) begins in front of the church and encompasses the historic sights in Orange, now designated a Historic Main Street Community.  The route is 1 ½ miles long and passes 21 points of interest. While you explore Main Street, stop at the Ed Jaffe Gallery to see the work of this internationally known sculptor. Gallery hours are Thursday, Friday and Saturday from 11:00 A.M. to 5:00 P.M.
      After exploring the town of Orange, head south to nearby Gordonsville (here too you will find a self-guided walking tour handout).  Just off Main Street is the Exchange Hotel Civil War Museum.  The spacious columned veranda of the 1860 Greek Revival hotel beckons visitors as it once welcomed passengers alighting from the Virginia Central and Orange & Alexandria Railway in the pre-war years.  Civil War skirmishes and battles in the Orange County area resulted in this hotel being transformed into the Gordonsville Receiving Hospital.  Trainloads of Confederate wounded were unloaded at the hotel’s railroad platform.  In 1864 alone, 23,000 men were treated at the hospital, including 6,000 in one month.  The grounds became a sea of mud, tents and crude sheds while the surrounding fields were mass burial grounds for more than 700 soldiers.  The hotel’s once gleaming floors were blood stained, the stairways gouged and the paint faded.  
      With war’s end, the railroad resumed passenger service, the hotel was renovated and business again flourished.  With the railroad’s demise in the 1940s, the hotel went into a steady decline and within several decades was as derelict as it had been in 1865.  It wasn’t until the 1970s that local residents recognized the hotel’s historic significance and restored it to its former glory.  Some of the rooms are decorated to recall the hotel years while others serve as exhibit rooms for Civil War memorabilia including weapons, uniforms, battle flags, medical equipment, surgeons’ tools and period photographs.  The third floor rooms reflect the years that the hotel served as a hospital with a four-bed ward room and an actual operating table.
       The museum is open Tuesday through Saturday 10:00 A.M. to 4:00 P.M. from mid-March through December.  During the summer months it is open Sunday 12:30 to 4:30 P.M.  Closed on major holidays.  Admission is charged. 
There was one area ruin that couldn’t be rebuilt or restored and that was the mansion Thomas Jefferson designed for James Barbour, who served as governor of Virginia from 1812 to 1814.  The house burned on Christmas Day in 1884 but the massive brick walls and columns remained standing.  The Barboursville Ruins are just west of Gordonsville on Route 33 on the grounds of the Barboursville Winery.  These dramatic ruins provide an exciting backdrop for the Four County Players’ August weekend productions of “Shakespeare at the Ruins.” 
     The Zonin family, who now owns the winery, live in the brick dependence that the Barbour family renovated after the fire.  Four Zonin brothers continue the wine tradition begun by their family in Italy more than a century ago.  In 1976 they expanded their operation to Virginia, where Thomas Jefferson once dreamed of developing a flourishing wine industry.   Roughly 100 acres of their 830-acre property are currently planted and plans are to expand.  Luca Paschina, the General Manager and Winemaker, was trained in Alba, Italy.  Be sure to stop at the winery and sample its award-winning wines.  Barboursville Vineyards is open for tastings and sales Monday through Saturday from 10:00 A.M. to 5:00 P.M. and Sunday 11:00 A.M. to 5:00 P.M.
     If you are in the Gordonsville area around lunch or dinner, be sure to stop at the Toliver House Restaurant, renowned for their fried chicken and traditional southern cuisine.  The restaurant is at 209 N. Main Street; for reservations or additional information call (540) 832-3485.  For information on Orange County sites and events call the Visitors Bureau, (540) 672-1653.
Directions: From I-95 at Fredericksburg, take Route 3 exit west.  Turn left on Route 20 for Orange; this will become Main Street when you enter town.  To reach Gordonsville head south on Route 15.  For Barboursville head west on Route 33.  Turn left on Route 777 and you will soon see the entrance for Barboursville Vineyards. 

 

 

 

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